Just inland from the busy strip of Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana is a large lagoon. Called Lagoa, it is yet another remarkable feature of the city that has been handed every geographical gift imaginable.

We first spotted the lagoon on our drive in from the airport, and have been meaning to go ever since.

Today, Eli and I went to check it out, and to visit a cool park nearby, with an interesting history.

The park is a forest on a very large hill, with trails. It also has an adventure park (zip line etc).

In the late 1800’s it was leased by a wealthy woman from the government, who left it to her servants in her will. In 1925 when the lease ended, the government reclaimed the land, and began selling it off in parcels. Legal disputes over ownership left it undeveloped for years, and it began to be inhabited under cover of darkness by migrant workers from the neighbouring state of Minas Gerais, in the 1940’s. Social protection laws made it difficult for the government to remove a family once they had moved into a structure, unless they provided them another home, so at night, people would build huts on the hillside, and move their families in.

As Rio developed in the 1950’s and 60’s, and and as more and more migrant workers arrived in Rio, particularly following the construction of a road from the further away state of Bahia in the North East, the wealthy inhabitants in nearby Copacabana began to push the government to remove what they saw as illegal inhabitants.

Favela residents organized and protested, and managed to hold onto their homes until 1969/1970, when the government used the same social protection laws to move families to other favelas elsewhere.

Eventually the lower parts around the lagoon were redeveloped, and the upper parts turned into the national park there is today.

We headed up a trail leading to the adventure park, where once there stood a favela.

The government has set up a few reasonably priced attractions in the park, which are professionally run.

Eli had a go at rock climbing (which at $8 was a deal)

And on one of those weird canopy things…

With this excitement behind us, we followed the trail that leads all the way to the top of the hill. It’s a 15 minute climb.

And you’re rewarded with this view…

It was darker on the way down but cool to be in a forest surrounded by the city, and few people.

In 10 mins we were back in civilization. This footbridge crosses the main road around the lagoon.

Across the bridge we found ourselves in another more traditional park, alongside the lagoon. This is the area locals call ‘Lagoa’.

Eli found himself some football buddies…

His chums had to leave, but we soon found more to play with. It’s predictably ridiculous how easy it is to find people to play football with in Brazil.

Even I joined in…

And was relieved 10 mins later to go in goal

At one point we strapped the GoPro (camera) on Eli’s head for some interesting (kids) perspective shots.

We played until dusk, and ventured towards the lake. The views all around are spectacular as always in Rio. What you don’t realize about this city until you’ve been here, is there are several mountainous peaks surrounding the city, several shaped like the one in this picture.

People stroll the boardwalk that winds its way around the lagoon – lots of (mainly) middle class families with their kids, and plenty of attractions, playgrounds and sports courts, to keep the kids occupied. 100% recommended if you’re in Rio with kids.

We soon found ourselves at a busy Swiss-themed popup bar and restaurant (I think).

I watched the Germany v Ghana game while Eli made some friends

Eli’s tummy was beginning to hurt a bit, so we headed home….

Tomorrow we say goodbye to Rio, as we leave super early for the city of Belo Horizonte, and the beginning of a two week trip that will take us up the centre of the country and around the Northeast coast.

Stay tuned…

Today we ventured into the downtown commercial area of Rio known as Centro, and a bohemian residential neighbourhood called Santa Teresa.

Up until now we’ve remained in the relative safety and comfort of Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana, aside from the odd excursion. They’re the most popular areas with visitors for a reason. With the possible exception of Copacabana, which is a little jaded in places, these areas are safe, comfortable, happening, and lie right alongside the (amazing) beach.

To get to Centro we took the metro for the first time, which was pretty easy to figure out. It’s just one line between the main areas.

We came out of the metro at a station (and famous square) called Cinelândia, which apparently holds a special place in the hearts of Cariocas. It’s a symbol of freedom and democracy, where many political demonstrations have taken place.

Perhaps it was just the weather but it felt a little seedy and grotty – we didn’t want to hang about. We’re told it’s not a place to go at night or on the weekends, when the local office workers desert the place.

A lot of guides talk about the Municipal Theatre (Teatro Municipal), seen in the shot below. It was closed when we got there, so we didn’t get to venture inside.

We found a small market, among all the office towers and workers. A lot of souvenirs, phone accessories and leather stalls.

The Italy v Costa Rica game was in full swing at this point and represented the last faint hope for England to stay in the World Cup (Italy needed to win to keep England’s hopes alive).

We found a great cafe called Europa, that was showing the game. It seemed popular with local office types, and we stopped in to have lunch.

With England officially out of the World Cup, and some inconclusive discussions on who we might now support, we set off again to explore Centro, which to us had a real Casablanca vibe. A lot of hustle and bustle, a bit grotty, not entirely safe.

At street level it was not particularly easy on the eyes, a fair share of not very appealing shops and businesses. But if you looked up you could still see the grandeur and architecture of this important area of Rio’s past.

We kept moving, and kept our wits about us.

We found a square with an impressive church…

And more interesting architecture, above the souvenir shops and market stalls.

There were a few interesting shops, among the alley-like streets, but having visited both.. Ipanema scores best for shopping.

I’d grown weary of being on heightened alert, and we’d seen enough of Centro. So we jumped in a cab to drive to nearby Santa Teresa – a bohemian, cobblestoned neighbourhood, high on a hill above the city.

The views in places was amazing and I loved the cobblestone vibe. We could only imagine what the views from these houses must be.

After walking up the long thoroughfare, which winded its way up the hill, we reached the central part of the neighbourhood.

We found a nice bar called Espirito Santa. Switzerland were playing France, and both teams had pulled a large late afternoon crowd.

The rear terrace of the bar had a great view

We walked around Santa Teresa. Eli made quite an impression on local artist Domingos Cardoso, as he did on us. Amazing paintings of favelas and other aspects of daily Rio life.

Night was falling and we walked up the main street through Santa Teresa

The area was full of people watching the game in different bars. The bar scene in Santa Teresa is awesome.

A short cab ride and we were back on the beach at Ipanema, where the locals were playing keepy uppy – with or without a net.

Eli played ball boy…

On the walk home through Ipanema, we passed the Dutch team hotel

We arrived just as (someone I didn’t recognize) was signing autographs

And that was it!

Woke up to heavy rain in Rio today, which should have been a good omen for England, but sadly… no.

Bit too depressed to write more 🙁

A quick post as we spent most of the day traveling…

We got a little R&R in the morning

There was a lovely beach bar in Abraão (with really cool wooden chairs) where we sat waiting for our boat. The empty bar next to it, with the plastic chairs, may want to consider an investment… in chairs!

Eli took it to another level with his sand writings… a 30 foot long piece (which read… ‘Brazil June 18 2014 Elias !! Good Cool Amazon Eli’)

We took the boat back to the mainland (at Conceição de Jacareí)

Eli joined some Brazilian kids who were playing football on the beach

And then another game in the village square

After this we journeyed back to Rio in very heavy traffic, it was night-time by the time we got home. En route we watched Spain go out of the World Cup to Chile, which was a pretty astonishing turn of events.

Back at home we found waiting for us… our last set of World Cup tickets!

These had arrive via a pretty circuitous route from Switzerland, and basically we didn’t think they’d ever get to us.

After this, and what looked like a pretty boring game on telly between Croatia and Cameroon, we had ourselves an early night.

Ilha Grande (Big Island) is a lush tropical island 2 hours south of Rio. The drive, once you get out of Rio, is pretty spectacular. I mounted my GoPro (camera) to the window of the car, sped up the footage, so you can experience the drive, ooh… in about 40 seconds.

We were dropped off at the small fishing village of Conceição de Jacareí, where we would catch the boat to Ilha Grande.

While we waited for the boat, Eli and I went a-wondering onto the beach.

Soon we were heading down the long jetty to meet the boat

The scenery all around was spectacular

After about 20 mins, our first view of Ilha Grande

This is Abraão – the main village on the island

We got off the boat to head into Abraão proper

We walked up to a small hill to our Pousada (Brazilian BnB), to check in

A quick change of clothes and we were back on the beach and looking for a boat to take us to Lopes Mendes – supposedly one of the top 10 beaches in the world (at least according to Vogue).

You can actually walk to Lopes Mendes from Abraão, although it’s a 2.5 hour, 8km hike (there’s no cars on Ilha Grande). We figured it was too much for Eli, and time was getting on.

We found a guy who seemed to know a guy.

While Semma and I worked out the logistics, Eli went for a swim.

It took some time and haggling to find a ride. The deal is that if someone takes you to Lopes Mendes beach, they pretty much have to bring you back (unless you’re going to walk). Basically it would not be fun to get stranded in the jungle after dark – the beach is very remote.

The problem for us was that Brazil were playing their second World Cup game against Mexico in the afternoon, and nobody wanted to commit to bringing us back!

We managed to persuade someone, apparently the only non-footballing fan in Brazil.

Crazy ‘beard cloud’

Lopes Mendes beach is so remote, they drop you off at a beach called Pouso, and you hike a 20 min walk up and over the island. We cleaned up Eli’s shoes and got ready for the hike.

It was a fair climb up and back down across the island, and we were all pretty relieved to get to the now infamous beach

And it didn’t disappoint

We had it virtually to ourselves

Eli did his best Van Persie impression

And in super slo motion video for fun

It was getting late, and we were the last to leave the beach. We retraced our steps to Pouso… our man was waiting there to take us back to Abraão, and we arrived just in time to watch the second half of the Brazil v Mexico game. The whole island it seemed was gathered on the beach to watch the game.

We walked back along the beach to our Pousada…

… and spent the evening hanging out with a nice couple from Colorado, who had two boys – a bit older than Eli, and (pictured) Baz and Jose from Holland, who were good fun and had been to the incredible Holland v Spain game!

A long day… but totally worth the journey.