Category Archives: Pipa

Days 23 – Journey from Pipa to Lencois

After 3 super relaxing days in Pipa, and a much welcome break from driving, it was time to jump back in the car, and a plane, and a car again. Confused? We were a bit too!

Our destination was the Chapada Diamantina (Diamond Cliffs) National Park, 6 hours west of Salvador. We had originally planned to drive the whole way to Salvador, basically in time for the Holland v Costa Rica quarter final (which we had tickets for), but this would have meant having no chance to visit one of the most incredible places in Brazil – basically the Grand Canyon of Brazil.

So we changed our plans to cover some of the 1300km route south by plane.

We set off from Pipa very early in the morning (7am) for the drive back up the coast an hour to Natal airport.

leaving-pipa

One of the guys from our hotel had very kindly offered to come with us, as we were expecting a hard time from the car rental company over the car (which was seriously damaged from our pothole incident).

We followed Mauricio on his bike through the early morning streets…

following-motorbike

He dropped off his bike and joined us in the car for the rest of the journey

finding-natal-airport-car-shot

We had a bit of a problem finding Natal airport. They made a new airport for the World Cup, gave it the same 3 letter airport code (NAT), and located it several miles away from the old one. Due to delays nobody was really sure whether the new airport was open.

Finding information about it was tough, Google Maps was still pointing to the old airport, and the roads between the two airports weren’t finished.

Luckily we’d anticipated this the night before thanks to a throwaway comment by one of the hotel managers, and given ourselves plenty of time to go to the old airport first, establish it was indeed closed, and then navigate the tricky roads and suburbs to get to the new airport if needed.

finding-natal-airport

Throughout all this I couldn’t help but think how many people during the World Cup must have missed their flights at Natal. It took us an hour to get to the new airport from the old one, and we had a local helping us. We had to stop and ask directions several times.

When we got to the new airport there were no signs (eg for car rental drop off), everything looked under construction, and we couldn’t even be sure that our car rental company (Avis) had a working office there.

We went into the airport terminal to find the car rental desks in the arrivals hall, passing through security in reverse (which seemed to be allowed somehow). Everything was good, Avis was there, and parking randomly outside seemed to be the correct thing to do to drop off the car.

Back outside we gave the car one last inspection before Avis bods came to do their inspection.

mauricio-inspects-car

The damage on the rear wheel was pretty significant and obvious

wheel-damage

And fairly obvious on the front wheel too

front-wheel

In these situations I find it’s always best to admit the problem at the front end, rather than let people ‘discover’ it. Doing so means you’ve established some level of trust, and they can focus on the problem you’ve admitted, rather than start looking for other problems after they inevitably find the first.

I was a bit worried about the underside of the car for example, which had taken a fair old beating on our 100km shortcut down a sandy road.

Mauricio had looked at me like I was mad when I asked him to tell Avis there was a serious problem with the wheels, and we waited nervously while Avis did the inspection.

avis-checking-car

Inside we spent a tense hour negotiating the damage and the complex situation we had created by dropping the car to a different location than planned.

avis-desk

I was being super careful not to get ripped off having had a bad experience recently with Hertz in Mexico over a chipped windscreen. I insisted that the cost to repair the damage was quoted now rather than be charged to the card later.

There was no way I could have done all this without someone there to help – nobody spoke English well, and it involved long phone calls back and forth to Sao Luis (where we’d rented the car). My efforts the day before to call Avis about it in the US and get help were fruitless.

In the end we came away with a quote of $130 for two replacement wheels, a new tyre, and hub cab. I thought that was quite a result.

Semma and Eli had been waiting patiently nearby and we were now almost late for our flight. Fortunately, nobody else it seemed had managed to find the new airport at all, and there were literally multiple check-in agents waiting to help us. This is a budget airline queue in Brazil!

empty-natal-airport1

The empty airport theme continued as we made our way through security to the gate.

empty-natal-airport2

I kept wondering whether the plane would also find the new airport, but it did

eli-watching-plane

It was a quick flight (less than an hour) from Natal to Salvador

flight-to-salvador-from-recife

Eli had the window seat in our near empty plane

eli-looking-out-window

The staff were super friendly, possibly because they had nothing to do

high-five-salvador

And we’d arrived in Salvador!

arriving-salvadordavid-luis nuns

We had another long wait at a car rental counter

hertz-counter

But spirits lifted as we reached outside for the shuttle bus

waiting-for-hertz-van

A quick ride through a cool natural ‘tunnel’

transfer-to-hertz

And into our new ride

into-hertz-car

The Chapada Diamantina National Park (Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina) is a long drive inland from Salvador (about 6 hours). We jumped straight on the highway so as to make good time.tall-lorry

The road from Salvador to Feira de Santana (Bahia state’s second largest city behind Salvador) was good, a new two lane highway, and we got there in a little over an hour.

We stopped briefly in the city to grab something to eat, and like many places in Brazil there were kids waiting at traffic stops to perform football skills for small change.

football-kid-in-feira-de-santana

Outside of Feira de Santana, the road narrowed to one lane…

sunset-over-feira-de-santana

And soon it was dark.

sunset2-over-feira-de-santana

The rest of our journey (no photos) was very long and a little grueling. The road got worse, it was full of slow moving trucks, and progress was painfully slow. I spent hours literally waiting to overtake trucks on windy dark roads, we nearly ran out of gas and I had to ‘hug a truck’ from behind to make it to a gas station.

We finally arrived in Lencois, our base to explore the national park about 10pm and I had a moody waitstaff to deal with over dinner as they thought they were done for the night in the hotel restaurant!

Hopefully tomorrow it will all be worth it!!

Day 20 – Beberibe and Journey to Pipa

After our very cool evening hanging out with Luca and Sylvana, the owners of our Pousada in Beberibe, we finally got to see it in daylight.

flamboyant-village-from-bungalow

Eli made a beeline for the pool…

eli-at-pool

And the swings…

eli-on-swings

We had a long journey ahead of us so not much time to hang about. We packed our things and posed for a pic with new friends Luca and Sylvana.

group-shot-luca-sylvana

Our journey was 300 miles (500km) south to Pipa, a place we’d heard was particularly nice, and similar in some ways to Jericoacoara. That alone boded well and it was confirmed by Sylvana who advised that Pipa was indeed very special.

This would be the last part of our 2,000km drive south from Sao Luis, hugging the Brazilian coastline, and we were looking forward to staying somewhere for more than one night, having done 3 nights in a row hopping from place to place.

We set off through the tiny and unspoilt fishing village that is Beberibe.

beberibe

We had a brief worry, as again our GPS took us onto a sandy road. (The last time this happened turned into a major undertaking.)

sandy-road

Fortunately it was only a short track and we were soon back onto the main road, heading south.

main-road

In Brazil, you often come across police stations that serve as checkpoints along the road. They block the main carriageway and funnel the traffic alongside the police station, so the police can see who is moving about. Very simple, but effective no doubt.

police-stop

It was a long day’s driving, taking us mainly through rural areas, but also a couple of large towns.

tanker semma-car bridge long-road truck-rocks

The temperature gauge hit 39 degrees (102 degrees fahrenheit). It’s winter in Brazil.

39-degrees

As the day passed by, we got closer and closer to Natal, a major city (and a World Cup Venue) an hour north of our destination Pipa. There was some cool scenery en route, and it reminded us of driving across America.

cool-clouds mountain

We reached Natal as dusk was falling.

natal-evening-freeway natal-evening-freeway2

I’ve never seen anyone jump start a truck before, but I can check that off the list.

push-a-truck

We passed right by the World Cup stadium in Natal. The picture doesn’t really do it justice, but it is all silk white, with dramatic white stairways on the outside. The effect is incredibly impressive.

natal-stadium

It was dinner time so we found Brazil’s version of a Mövenpick Marché, featuring one of the most impressive buffets we’ve seen. We’d wanted to try a variety of Brazilian food since getting here, but generally speaking the dishes in restaurants we’ve been too have had very large portions (typically for two) and we’d been looking for a way to sample all the different dishes with less commitment.

Eli stuck to more traditional fare… and we also got to watch the Germany v Algeria match.

dinner-eli

Things were going to plan and it looked like we’d arrive in Pipa about 9pm.

One of the aspects of driving in Brazil is that the roads are generally pants, particularly in the north east (poorer) part of the country. There are some good roads, and some obviously bad roads, but it’s the good roads with hidden bad bits (potholes and speed humps) that are most dangerous. Add to that the lack of reliable signs (hit and miss), daredevil overtaking, and frequent animals in the middle of the road (cows, dogs, cats, donkeys), and it’s a recipe for some high intensity driving.

We had driven 2,000km with only one minor issue so far (getting stuck in the sand) and were now 5km from our last port of call… when trouble struck.

We hit a deep pothole at 100km/hr, on a brand new road, taking out two of our wheels in dramatic fashion. The front tyre burst instantly and the steel wheel was completely written off. The rear wheel was also severely dented although luckily the tyre held out.

Fortunately, no one was hurt, just rather shaken, and we called for help from our (now) nearby Pousada, while I began replacing the wheel, on a pitch black dark and deserted road.

After 20 mins, help arrived, and the operation now involved a taxi driver, the front desk manager, and the Pousada’s head of security. That’s a lot of guys to change a wheel (I know), but this is Brazil, Eli was asleep in the back of the car, and we were wary of taking any chances.

fixing-the-wheel

Another 20 mins later and after breaking the mangled hub cap off the wheel (which had impacted into the wheel, becoming part of it), we had the wheel changed, and we limped on it to Pipa, marveling at how lucky (or unlucky) we’d been.

On the flip side, all this trouble had meant I had completely forgotten the kind of place we were heading to.

Rewinding a few months, when I was booking places for the trip, working out driving distances and everything else in between, I had figured that at the end of a 2000km road trip, we might want to stay somewhere especially nice.

We’ve been fortunate to stay in some lovely places over the years, but this took the biscuit.

room-wide

… Our own little house, in the jungle, at the end of a long wooden walkway.

semma-loves-room

Eli had somehow remained asleep throughout all this, and was navigating to unusual positions.

semma-eli-sleeping

To add to the wonder of it all, we were told breakfast would be served until Noon (and checkout was 3pm). Now that’s progression!

Utterly blown away, we couldn’t wait to see it all in daylight.