After our very cool evening hanging out with Luca and Sylvana, the owners of our Pousada in Beberibe, we finally got to see it in daylight.
Eli made a beeline for the pool…
And the swings…
We had a long journey ahead of us so not much time to hang about. We packed our things and posed for a pic with new friends Luca and Sylvana.
Our journey was 300 miles (500km) south to Pipa, a place we’d heard was particularly nice, and similar in some ways to Jericoacoara. That alone boded well and it was confirmed by Sylvana who advised that Pipa was indeed very special.
This would be the last part of our 2,000km drive south from Sao Luis, hugging the Brazilian coastline, and we were looking forward to staying somewhere for more than one night, having done 3 nights in a row hopping from place to place.
We set off through the tiny and unspoilt fishing village that is Beberibe.
We had a brief worry, as again our GPS took us onto a sandy road. (The last time this happened turned into a major undertaking.)
Fortunately it was only a short track and we were soon back onto the main road, heading south.
In Brazil, you often come across police stations that serve as checkpoints along the road. They block the main carriageway and funnel the traffic alongside the police station, so the police can see who is moving about. Very simple, but effective no doubt.
It was a long day’s driving, taking us mainly through rural areas, but also a couple of large towns.
The temperature gauge hit 39 degrees (102 degrees fahrenheit). It’s winter in Brazil.
As the day passed by, we got closer and closer to Natal, a major city (and a World Cup Venue) an hour north of our destination Pipa. There was some cool scenery en route, and it reminded us of driving across America.
We reached Natal as dusk was falling.
I’ve never seen anyone jump start a truck before, but I can check that off the list.
We passed right by the World Cup stadium in Natal. The picture doesn’t really do it justice, but it is all silk white, with dramatic white stairways on the outside. The effect is incredibly impressive.
It was dinner time so we found Brazil’s version of a Mövenpick Marché, featuring one of the most impressive buffets we’ve seen. We’d wanted to try a variety of Brazilian food since getting here, but generally speaking the dishes in restaurants we’ve been too have had very large portions (typically for two) and we’d been looking for a way to sample all the different dishes with less commitment.
Eli stuck to more traditional fare… and we also got to watch the Germany v Algeria match.
Things were going to plan and it looked like we’d arrive in Pipa about 9pm.
One of the aspects of driving in Brazil is that the roads are generally pants, particularly in the north east (poorer) part of the country. There are some good roads, and some obviously bad roads, but it’s the good roads with hidden bad bits (potholes and speed humps) that are most dangerous. Add to that the lack of reliable signs (hit and miss), daredevil overtaking, and frequent animals in the middle of the road (cows, dogs, cats, donkeys), and it’s a recipe for some high intensity driving.
We had driven 2,000km with only one minor issue so far (getting stuck in the sand) and were now 5km from our last port of call… when trouble struck.
We hit a deep pothole at 100km/hr, on a brand new road, taking out two of our wheels in dramatic fashion. The front tyre burst instantly and the steel wheel was completely written off. The rear wheel was also severely dented although luckily the tyre held out.
Fortunately, no one was hurt, just rather shaken, and we called for help from our (now) nearby Pousada, while I began replacing the wheel, on a pitch black dark and deserted road.
After 20 mins, help arrived, and the operation now involved a taxi driver, the front desk manager, and the Pousada’s head of security. That’s a lot of guys to change a wheel (I know), but this is Brazil, Eli was asleep in the back of the car, and we were wary of taking any chances.
Another 20 mins later and after breaking the mangled hub cap off the wheel (which had impacted into the wheel, becoming part of it), we had the wheel changed, and we limped on it to Pipa, marveling at how lucky (or unlucky) we’d been.
On the flip side, all this trouble had meant I had completely forgotten the kind of place we were heading to.
Rewinding a few months, when I was booking places for the trip, working out driving distances and everything else in between, I had figured that at the end of a 2000km road trip, we might want to stay somewhere especially nice.
We’ve been fortunate to stay in some lovely places over the years, but this took the biscuit.
… Our own little house, in the jungle, at the end of a long wooden walkway.
Eli had somehow remained asleep throughout all this, and was navigating to unusual positions.
To add to the wonder of it all, we were told breakfast would be served until Noon (and checkout was 3pm). Now that’s progression!
Utterly blown away, we couldn’t wait to see it all in daylight.