Just inland from the busy strip of Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana is a large lagoon. Called Lagoa, it is yet another remarkable feature of the city that has been handed every geographical gift imaginable.
We first spotted the lagoon on our drive in from the airport, and have been meaning to go ever since.
Today, Eli and I went to check it out, and to visit a cool park nearby, with an interesting history.
The park is a forest on a very large hill, with trails. It also has an adventure park (zip line etc).
In the late 1800’s it was leased by a wealthy woman from the government, who left it to her servants in her will. In 1925 when the lease ended, the government reclaimed the land, and began selling it off in parcels. Legal disputes over ownership left it undeveloped for years, and it began to be inhabited under cover of darkness by migrant workers from the neighbouring state of Minas Gerais, in the 1940’s. Social protection laws made it difficult for the government to remove a family once they had moved into a structure, unless they provided them another home, so at night, people would build huts on the hillside, and move their families in.
As Rio developed in the 1950’s and 60’s, and and as more and more migrant workers arrived in Rio, particularly following the construction of a road from the further away state of Bahia in the North East, the wealthy inhabitants in nearby Copacabana began to push the government to remove what they saw as illegal inhabitants.
Favela residents organized and protested, and managed to hold onto their homes until 1969/1970, when the government used the same social protection laws to move families to other favelas elsewhere.
Eventually the lower parts around the lagoon were redeveloped, and the upper parts turned into the national park there is today.
We headed up a trail leading to the adventure park, where once there stood a favela.
The government has set up a few reasonably priced attractions in the park, which are professionally run.
Eli had a go at rock climbing (which at $8 was a deal)
And on one of those weird canopy things…
With this excitement behind us, we followed the trail that leads all the way to the top of the hill. It’s a 15 minute climb.
And you’re rewarded with this view…
It was darker on the way down but cool to be in a forest surrounded by the city, and few people.
In 10 mins we were back in civilization. This footbridge crosses the main road around the lagoon.
Across the bridge we found ourselves in another more traditional park, alongside the lagoon. This is the area locals call ‘Lagoa’.
Eli found himself some football buddies…
His chums had to leave, but we soon found more to play with. It’s predictably ridiculous how easy it is to find people to play football with in Brazil.
Even I joined in…
And was relieved 10 mins later to go in goal
At one point we strapped the GoPro (camera) on Eli’s head for some interesting (kids) perspective shots.
We played until dusk, and ventured towards the lake. The views all around are spectacular as always in Rio. What you don’t realize about this city until you’ve been here, is there are several mountainous peaks surrounding the city, several shaped like the one in this picture.
People stroll the boardwalk that winds its way around the lagoon – lots of (mainly) middle class families with their kids, and plenty of attractions, playgrounds and sports courts, to keep the kids occupied. 100% recommended if you’re in Rio with kids.
We soon found ourselves at a busy Swiss-themed popup bar and restaurant (I think).
I watched the Germany v Ghana game while Eli made some friends
Eli’s tummy was beginning to hurt a bit, so we headed home….
Tomorrow we say goodbye to Rio, as we leave super early for the city of Belo Horizonte, and the beginning of a two week trip that will take us up the centre of the country and around the Northeast coast.
Stay tuned…