Today we ventured into the downtown commercial area of Rio known as Centro, and a bohemian residential neighbourhood called Santa Teresa.
Up until now we’ve remained in the relative safety and comfort of Leblon, Ipanema and Copacabana, aside from the odd excursion. They’re the most popular areas with visitors for a reason. With the possible exception of Copacabana, which is a little jaded in places, these areas are safe, comfortable, happening, and lie right alongside the (amazing) beach.
To get to Centro we took the metro for the first time, which was pretty easy to figure out. It’s just one line between the main areas.
We came out of the metro at a station (and famous square) called Cinelândia, which apparently holds a special place in the hearts of Cariocas. It’s a symbol of freedom and democracy, where many political demonstrations have taken place.
Perhaps it was just the weather but it felt a little seedy and grotty – we didn’t want to hang about. We’re told it’s not a place to go at night or on the weekends, when the local office workers desert the place.
A lot of guides talk about the Municipal Theatre (Teatro Municipal), seen in the shot below. It was closed when we got there, so we didn’t get to venture inside.
We found a small market, among all the office towers and workers. A lot of souvenirs, phone accessories and leather stalls.
The Italy v Costa Rica game was in full swing at this point and represented the last faint hope for England to stay in the World Cup (Italy needed to win to keep England’s hopes alive).
We found a great cafe called Europa, that was showing the game. It seemed popular with local office types, and we stopped in to have lunch.
With England officially out of the World Cup, and some inconclusive discussions on who we might now support, we set off again to explore Centro, which to us had a real Casablanca vibe. A lot of hustle and bustle, a bit grotty, not entirely safe.
At street level it was not particularly easy on the eyes, a fair share of not very appealing shops and businesses. But if you looked up you could still see the grandeur and architecture of this important area of Rio’s past.
We kept moving, and kept our wits about us.
We found a square with an impressive church…
And more interesting architecture, above the souvenir shops and market stalls.
There were a few interesting shops, among the alley-like streets, but having visited both.. Ipanema scores best for shopping.
I’d grown weary of being on heightened alert, and we’d seen enough of Centro. So we jumped in a cab to drive to nearby Santa Teresa – a bohemian, cobblestoned neighbourhood, high on a hill above the city.
The views in places was amazing and I loved the cobblestone vibe. We could only imagine what the views from these houses must be.
After walking up the long thoroughfare, which winded its way up the hill, we reached the central part of the neighbourhood.
We found a nice bar called Espirito Santa. Switzerland were playing France, and both teams had pulled a large late afternoon crowd.
The rear terrace of the bar had a great view
We walked around Santa Teresa. Eli made quite an impression on local artist Domingos Cardoso, as he did on us. Amazing paintings of favelas and other aspects of daily Rio life.
Night was falling and we walked up the main street through Santa Teresa
The area was full of people watching the game in different bars. The bar scene in Santa Teresa is awesome.
A short cab ride and we were back on the beach at Ipanema, where the locals were playing keepy uppy – with or without a net.
Eli played ball boy…
On the walk home through Ipanema, we passed the Dutch team hotel
We arrived just as (someone I didn’t recognize) was signing autographs
And that was it!